The front suspension is completed. The upper and lower control arms came from Virginia Classic Mustangs and are the Scott Drake types. All new hardware accompanied the arms. I installed new tire rod ends and stabilizer hardware and bushings also from VCA. The 610 pound K code specific coil springs and sway bar hardware all came from Dallas Mustang. The spindles were stripped down and refinished in the factory cast color.
The coil springs were a little tricky to get back in though. The OEM coil spring compressor that rented from Auto Zone took the old ones off easily enough, but the "duck foot" upper bracket would not fit back in the shock towere frame. It took a little engineering forethought, but the tool did work. I used ratchet straps to hold the springs plumb in the seats, and put the "duck foot" bracket on top of the shock tower and started tightening the springs down. Once the springs were tightened down, I used the ratchet straps to keep the springs aligned in the spring perches as I decompressed them. It took about 30 minutes per side, but the end result was perfect.
Next up...the brakes!!!
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Wiring (under hood)...
Today I started the underhood wiring. I ordered the harnesses a while back from Virginuia Classic Mustang and Dallas Mustang. I have already wired up the alternator and have it mounted, but was waiting to finish off the wiring until the welding was done. Now that the welding and underhood painting has been completed, I can start getting this project put back together. Everything electrical related is getting replaced. What I have for the underhood is the solenoid, coil, engine feed harness, and headlight harness, as well as all original loom straps, and rubber coated J clips. The J clips go on the left valve cover. There are three in all, and go across the top of the valve cover. The wiring harness retainers are already in place and clocked to the correct position as iillustrated by the Osborne assembly manual.
The headlight harness was the first to get installed. I started at the hi pitch horn (left), by routing the horn feed wire, through the radiator support (it is a very snug fit). I pulled the feed wire through, and secured the grommet. Then over to the low pitch horn (right), feeding the harness in between the radiator and radiator support. The horn feed was passed through the radiator support and the grommet secured. Th right headlight feed was passed through the apron and left for future attachments, and the same for the left side. the solenoid and alternator feed was fed through the lower radiator support and attached to the alternator feed.
The engine feed harness was a bit easier as it basically lays in the engine compartment. I placed the firewall connector at the approximate location it will sit. Then routed the harness across the top of the firewall. Since the car has an automatic C-4 in it, I installed the transmission feed harness at this time also. It passes through the firewall from the interior to the engine compartment. Both the transmission and engine use the same retainer closes them. Since these are the only two harnesses routed to the right, this retainer was closed. The transmission feed routes down at this point, and the engine feed harness keeps going to the right, through the next retainer, and gets closed. From here they will be routed underneath the export brace, but is not installed yet, so the harness gets brought over to the shock tower and secured. Next, route the harness around the shock tower and secure it in the next retainer. Make the connections on the solenoid, and secure the harnesses as they make their way down the apron and towards the radiator support. The other half of the engine feed harness is routed across the top of the left valve cover, through the J clips. Lay the harness in, and bend them upward to secure the harness. Attach the connections to the appropriate connections and you are finished.
I did not secure the firewall to radiator support or the top portion of the headlight harness. These will be secured once the windshield washer system and fog light harnesses arrive.
The headlight harness was the first to get installed. I started at the hi pitch horn (left), by routing the horn feed wire, through the radiator support (it is a very snug fit). I pulled the feed wire through, and secured the grommet. Then over to the low pitch horn (right), feeding the harness in between the radiator and radiator support. The horn feed was passed through the radiator support and the grommet secured. Th right headlight feed was passed through the apron and left for future attachments, and the same for the left side. the solenoid and alternator feed was fed through the lower radiator support and attached to the alternator feed.
The engine feed harness was a bit easier as it basically lays in the engine compartment. I placed the firewall connector at the approximate location it will sit. Then routed the harness across the top of the firewall. Since the car has an automatic C-4 in it, I installed the transmission feed harness at this time also. It passes through the firewall from the interior to the engine compartment. Both the transmission and engine use the same retainer closes them. Since these are the only two harnesses routed to the right, this retainer was closed. The transmission feed routes down at this point, and the engine feed harness keeps going to the right, through the next retainer, and gets closed. From here they will be routed underneath the export brace, but is not installed yet, so the harness gets brought over to the shock tower and secured. Next, route the harness around the shock tower and secure it in the next retainer. Make the connections on the solenoid, and secure the harnesses as they make their way down the apron and towards the radiator support. The other half of the engine feed harness is routed across the top of the left valve cover, through the J clips. Lay the harness in, and bend them upward to secure the harness. Attach the connections to the appropriate connections and you are finished.
I did not secure the firewall to radiator support or the top portion of the headlight harness. These will be secured once the windshield washer system and fog light harnesses arrive.
Floor Pans...
The floor pans in the car were comletely rusted through from the firewall to driver front pan. So, this will detail the process I went through to replace it.
First I went to the local Mustang restoration shop and picked up a replacement Dynacorn floor pan. The stamping is perfect, and a little longer on the firewall side to ease in fit. First, I layed the new pan in place and sat a cylinder head on top to weight it down. Then I used some black spray paint (the interior color is white) th mark off where the new pan will go. After the paint dried, I masked it off with masking tape to get a good clean edge so I could cut it out. I cut it out with a pneumatic cutoff tool and 3M green corps cutoff wheel. The 3M wheel lasted for the whole cut. I drilled out the spot welds with a 3/8" drill bit, the loosened them up with a chisel, once the pan was coming out.
Once the pan was out I layed it on top of the new pan and used some red spray paint to mark the spot weld holes for the new ones. Then I used the same 3/8" bit to drill out the holes.
The new pan layed in the hole perfectly, I left about 1/2" overlap of old metal to give me a base for the stitch welding. I tacked in the corners with .030 flux core welding wire using the Hobart 125EZ Flux Core MIG welder, then I started stitch about 1" apart all the way around the pan. After I finished the stitch, I started filling in the spot welds, using a rosette technique. Once the welding was done, I grinded down the welds and used a 3M seam sealer to finish off the seams.
After the seam sealer cured for 2 hours, I sprayed the firewall and floors with a red oxide caoting and allowed them to dry for an hour, then finished the job up with fith a coating of semi-flat black on all surfaces. Looks good as new and hopefully will last another 45 years.
First I went to the local Mustang restoration shop and picked up a replacement Dynacorn floor pan. The stamping is perfect, and a little longer on the firewall side to ease in fit. First, I layed the new pan in place and sat a cylinder head on top to weight it down. Then I used some black spray paint (the interior color is white) th mark off where the new pan will go. After the paint dried, I masked it off with masking tape to get a good clean edge so I could cut it out. I cut it out with a pneumatic cutoff tool and 3M green corps cutoff wheel. The 3M wheel lasted for the whole cut. I drilled out the spot welds with a 3/8" drill bit, the loosened them up with a chisel, once the pan was coming out.
Once the pan was out I layed it on top of the new pan and used some red spray paint to mark the spot weld holes for the new ones. Then I used the same 3/8" bit to drill out the holes.
The new pan layed in the hole perfectly, I left about 1/2" overlap of old metal to give me a base for the stitch welding. I tacked in the corners with .030 flux core welding wire using the Hobart 125EZ Flux Core MIG welder, then I started stitch about 1" apart all the way around the pan. After I finished the stitch, I started filling in the spot welds, using a rosette technique. Once the welding was done, I grinded down the welds and used a 3M seam sealer to finish off the seams.
After the seam sealer cured for 2 hours, I sprayed the firewall and floors with a red oxide caoting and allowed them to dry for an hour, then finished the job up with fith a coating of semi-flat black on all surfaces. Looks good as new and hopefully will last another 45 years.
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Automatic Shifter Rebuild...
Today I rebuilt the shifter housing on the car. It was soaking in degreaser for the past day, so after it dried off I stripped it down and cleaned it up. It was coated with red oxide, and then a couple of thin coats of VHT Silver Caliper paint.
A new bushing kit from Virginia Classic Mustang was installed to clean up the slop in the lever, and everything was retightened to factory specs. It feels like a new shifter.
I also reconditioned the accelerator mount. Like the others, it was stripped down to bare metal, coated with red oxide and the finished off with a fresh coat of Black Engine Paint. I still don't have a pedal bolt for reassembly, but that will go on the next order.
Next up, the Heater Box...
A new bushing kit from Virginia Classic Mustang was installed to clean up the slop in the lever, and everything was retightened to factory specs. It feels like a new shifter.
I also reconditioned the accelerator mount. Like the others, it was stripped down to bare metal, coated with red oxide and the finished off with a fresh coat of Black Engine Paint. I still don't have a pedal bolt for reassembly, but that will go on the next order.
Next up, the Heater Box...
Friday, February 18, 2011
Wiper Motor
Today, I found the mother load. I local mustang shop got in in a totaled 66 Mustang, and they are parting out the good stuff. I picked up a 2 speed wiper motor with mounting braket, and transmission arms for $150!!!
While I was there I also picked up some small trim pieces, gas and correct brake pedal, accelerator line grommet kit, and kick down bushings.
Tomorrow, I will try and finish the interior priming and start getting the front put back together...
While I was there I also picked up some small trim pieces, gas and correct brake pedal, accelerator line grommet kit, and kick down bushings.
Tomorrow, I will try and finish the interior priming and start getting the front put back together...
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Parts, Parts, Parts...
So, I have come up with a pretty solid list of vendors for the restoration. Listed below are the vendors and what I use them for...
Global Industrial: Hard to find original paints and body supplies
Tony Branda: High Perforance Mustang and Shelby parts
Year One: Just about anything under the sun, usually in stock, but a bit on the pricey side
Virginia Classsic Mustang: Original parts, hard to find parts, but problems with backorders
NPD: Really hard to find parts, great prices, I don't really like the ordering process
Glazier Nolan: Brakes, best price period, new parts, original equipment
MAC'S: Great parts number cross reference, a lot of original parts
Dallas Mustang: Local Vendor, good prices, not a lot of hard to find parts though
Eastwood: Paint and Body supplies
POR-15: Rust prevention
I know this isn't a vendor, but I use it all the time.
Mustang Monthly Magazine
They did a 66 project over a few years, and it has just about every how to you could imagine.
I hope this helps someone. They have all helped me.
Global Industrial: Hard to find original paints and body supplies
Tony Branda: High Perforance Mustang and Shelby parts
Year One: Just about anything under the sun, usually in stock, but a bit on the pricey side
Virginia Classsic Mustang: Original parts, hard to find parts, but problems with backorders
NPD: Really hard to find parts, great prices, I don't really like the ordering process
Glazier Nolan: Brakes, best price period, new parts, original equipment
MAC'S: Great parts number cross reference, a lot of original parts
Dallas Mustang: Local Vendor, good prices, not a lot of hard to find parts though
Eastwood: Paint and Body supplies
POR-15: Rust prevention
I know this isn't a vendor, but I use it all the time.
Mustang Monthly Magazine
They did a 66 project over a few years, and it has just about every how to you could imagine.
I hope this helps someone. They have all helped me.
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