Today I started the underhood wiring. I ordered the harnesses a while back from Virginuia Classic Mustang and Dallas Mustang. I have already wired up the alternator and have it mounted, but was waiting to finish off the wiring until the welding was done. Now that the welding and underhood painting has been completed, I can start getting this project put back together. Everything electrical related is getting replaced. What I have for the underhood is the solenoid, coil, engine feed harness, and headlight harness, as well as all original loom straps, and rubber coated J clips. The J clips go on the left valve cover. There are three in all, and go across the top of the valve cover. The wiring harness retainers are already in place and clocked to the correct position as iillustrated by the Osborne assembly manual.
The headlight harness was the first to get installed. I started at the hi pitch horn (left), by routing the horn feed wire, through the radiator support (it is a very snug fit). I pulled the feed wire through, and secured the grommet. Then over to the low pitch horn (right), feeding the harness in between the radiator and radiator support. The horn feed was passed through the radiator support and the grommet secured. Th right headlight feed was passed through the apron and left for future attachments, and the same for the left side. the solenoid and alternator feed was fed through the lower radiator support and attached to the alternator feed.
The engine feed harness was a bit easier as it basically lays in the engine compartment. I placed the firewall connector at the approximate location it will sit. Then routed the harness across the top of the firewall. Since the car has an automatic C-4 in it, I installed the transmission feed harness at this time also. It passes through the firewall from the interior to the engine compartment. Both the transmission and engine use the same retainer closes them. Since these are the only two harnesses routed to the right, this retainer was closed. The transmission feed routes down at this point, and the engine feed harness keeps going to the right, through the next retainer, and gets closed. From here they will be routed underneath the export brace, but is not installed yet, so the harness gets brought over to the shock tower and secured. Next, route the harness around the shock tower and secure it in the next retainer. Make the connections on the solenoid, and secure the harnesses as they make their way down the apron and towards the radiator support. The other half of the engine feed harness is routed across the top of the left valve cover, through the J clips. Lay the harness in, and bend them upward to secure the harness. Attach the connections to the appropriate connections and you are finished.
I did not secure the firewall to radiator support or the top portion of the headlight harness. These will be secured once the windshield washer system and fog light harnesses arrive.
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Floor Pans...
The floor pans in the car were comletely rusted through from the firewall to driver front pan. So, this will detail the process I went through to replace it.
First I went to the local Mustang restoration shop and picked up a replacement Dynacorn floor pan. The stamping is perfect, and a little longer on the firewall side to ease in fit. First, I layed the new pan in place and sat a cylinder head on top to weight it down. Then I used some black spray paint (the interior color is white) th mark off where the new pan will go. After the paint dried, I masked it off with masking tape to get a good clean edge so I could cut it out. I cut it out with a pneumatic cutoff tool and 3M green corps cutoff wheel. The 3M wheel lasted for the whole cut. I drilled out the spot welds with a 3/8" drill bit, the loosened them up with a chisel, once the pan was coming out.
Once the pan was out I layed it on top of the new pan and used some red spray paint to mark the spot weld holes for the new ones. Then I used the same 3/8" bit to drill out the holes.
The new pan layed in the hole perfectly, I left about 1/2" overlap of old metal to give me a base for the stitch welding. I tacked in the corners with .030 flux core welding wire using the Hobart 125EZ Flux Core MIG welder, then I started stitch about 1" apart all the way around the pan. After I finished the stitch, I started filling in the spot welds, using a rosette technique. Once the welding was done, I grinded down the welds and used a 3M seam sealer to finish off the seams.
After the seam sealer cured for 2 hours, I sprayed the firewall and floors with a red oxide caoting and allowed them to dry for an hour, then finished the job up with fith a coating of semi-flat black on all surfaces. Looks good as new and hopefully will last another 45 years.
First I went to the local Mustang restoration shop and picked up a replacement Dynacorn floor pan. The stamping is perfect, and a little longer on the firewall side to ease in fit. First, I layed the new pan in place and sat a cylinder head on top to weight it down. Then I used some black spray paint (the interior color is white) th mark off where the new pan will go. After the paint dried, I masked it off with masking tape to get a good clean edge so I could cut it out. I cut it out with a pneumatic cutoff tool and 3M green corps cutoff wheel. The 3M wheel lasted for the whole cut. I drilled out the spot welds with a 3/8" drill bit, the loosened them up with a chisel, once the pan was coming out.
Once the pan was out I layed it on top of the new pan and used some red spray paint to mark the spot weld holes for the new ones. Then I used the same 3/8" bit to drill out the holes.
The new pan layed in the hole perfectly, I left about 1/2" overlap of old metal to give me a base for the stitch welding. I tacked in the corners with .030 flux core welding wire using the Hobart 125EZ Flux Core MIG welder, then I started stitch about 1" apart all the way around the pan. After I finished the stitch, I started filling in the spot welds, using a rosette technique. Once the welding was done, I grinded down the welds and used a 3M seam sealer to finish off the seams.
After the seam sealer cured for 2 hours, I sprayed the firewall and floors with a red oxide caoting and allowed them to dry for an hour, then finished the job up with fith a coating of semi-flat black on all surfaces. Looks good as new and hopefully will last another 45 years.
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Automatic Shifter Rebuild...
Today I rebuilt the shifter housing on the car. It was soaking in degreaser for the past day, so after it dried off I stripped it down and cleaned it up. It was coated with red oxide, and then a couple of thin coats of VHT Silver Caliper paint.
A new bushing kit from Virginia Classic Mustang was installed to clean up the slop in the lever, and everything was retightened to factory specs. It feels like a new shifter.
I also reconditioned the accelerator mount. Like the others, it was stripped down to bare metal, coated with red oxide and the finished off with a fresh coat of Black Engine Paint. I still don't have a pedal bolt for reassembly, but that will go on the next order.
Next up, the Heater Box...
A new bushing kit from Virginia Classic Mustang was installed to clean up the slop in the lever, and everything was retightened to factory specs. It feels like a new shifter.
I also reconditioned the accelerator mount. Like the others, it was stripped down to bare metal, coated with red oxide and the finished off with a fresh coat of Black Engine Paint. I still don't have a pedal bolt for reassembly, but that will go on the next order.
Next up, the Heater Box...
Friday, February 18, 2011
Wiper Motor
Today, I found the mother load. I local mustang shop got in in a totaled 66 Mustang, and they are parting out the good stuff. I picked up a 2 speed wiper motor with mounting braket, and transmission arms for $150!!!
While I was there I also picked up some small trim pieces, gas and correct brake pedal, accelerator line grommet kit, and kick down bushings.
Tomorrow, I will try and finish the interior priming and start getting the front put back together...
While I was there I also picked up some small trim pieces, gas and correct brake pedal, accelerator line grommet kit, and kick down bushings.
Tomorrow, I will try and finish the interior priming and start getting the front put back together...
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Parts, Parts, Parts...
So, I have come up with a pretty solid list of vendors for the restoration. Listed below are the vendors and what I use them for...
Global Industrial: Hard to find original paints and body supplies
Tony Branda: High Perforance Mustang and Shelby parts
Year One: Just about anything under the sun, usually in stock, but a bit on the pricey side
Virginia Classsic Mustang: Original parts, hard to find parts, but problems with backorders
NPD: Really hard to find parts, great prices, I don't really like the ordering process
Glazier Nolan: Brakes, best price period, new parts, original equipment
MAC'S: Great parts number cross reference, a lot of original parts
Dallas Mustang: Local Vendor, good prices, not a lot of hard to find parts though
Eastwood: Paint and Body supplies
POR-15: Rust prevention
I know this isn't a vendor, but I use it all the time.
Mustang Monthly Magazine
They did a 66 project over a few years, and it has just about every how to you could imagine.
I hope this helps someone. They have all helped me.
Global Industrial: Hard to find original paints and body supplies
Tony Branda: High Perforance Mustang and Shelby parts
Year One: Just about anything under the sun, usually in stock, but a bit on the pricey side
Virginia Classsic Mustang: Original parts, hard to find parts, but problems with backorders
NPD: Really hard to find parts, great prices, I don't really like the ordering process
Glazier Nolan: Brakes, best price period, new parts, original equipment
MAC'S: Great parts number cross reference, a lot of original parts
Dallas Mustang: Local Vendor, good prices, not a lot of hard to find parts though
Eastwood: Paint and Body supplies
POR-15: Rust prevention
I know this isn't a vendor, but I use it all the time.
Mustang Monthly Magazine
They did a 66 project over a few years, and it has just about every how to you could imagine.
I hope this helps someone. They have all helped me.
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Getting up to speed...
For ease of reading I'll get you up to speed to where I am today. It took me 2 months, but the car is disassembled. Fenders, hood, bumpers, doors, valances, all of it is oof the car. The right fender was rusted through and bent up in the front where it attached to the valance, so I ordered a new one from NPD (Original Ford Tooling). Both Valances, Headlight Buckets, stone guard, grill support, grill fog lights, horse and corral, door and bumpers will be ordered new. They are not repairable.
I stripped down the aprons, coated them with Red Oxide and Krylon 1613 Semi-Flat Black. It looks original, the finish matched just about perfectly. I have ordered all new harnesses for the under hood area, and all new loom retainers which are now in place and clocked to the correct mounting positions. The Osborne Books were a life saver for that part.
The interior is out, the carpet was trashed, the driver seat bucket frame is trash and the cluster bezel is broken beyond fixing. there is no glove box or door, and all switches will be replaced. The firewall insulation was removed in chunks, to give way to minor rust spots, but the floor pans are another story.
The front suspension is off and the upper control arms will be replaced along with every bushing on the front end. The UCA relocation holes are present on the on the shock towers but the UCA were pulled from the upper holes, the lower ones have never been used. The brakes will be be replaced with factory disks, non-power, from Glazier Nolan.
The fuel system has been completely redone from the tank to the carb, all new stainless steel lines, hipo fuel pump, sending unit, and fuel hoses.
From the cooling side, the radiator has been refurbished, new factory correct dated hoses, but no clamps as they are back ordered from Virginai Classic Mustang.
Electrical, new under hood wiring, 42A Alternator, regulator, and tailight harness, from Virginia Classic Mustang. The underdash harness was in good condition, after the "aftermarket" wiring was removed from the harness. The instrument cluster was refurbished, and cleaned, and original gauges were all functional, so they will be reused.
The wiper motor bracket, brake pedal bracket, and brake pedal assembly were all removed and stripped down to bare metal, shot with red oxide and painted black with duplicolor black engine paint. All shiny and new.
Next is the heater box and everything that goes along with it, the floorboards, and interior paint. Once that is done, the suspension will be put back together, and brakes ordered and assembled. Then the splash gaurds, and bumper brackets go back on, and the front of the car will start to take shape again...
I stripped down the aprons, coated them with Red Oxide and Krylon 1613 Semi-Flat Black. It looks original, the finish matched just about perfectly. I have ordered all new harnesses for the under hood area, and all new loom retainers which are now in place and clocked to the correct mounting positions. The Osborne Books were a life saver for that part.
The interior is out, the carpet was trashed, the driver seat bucket frame is trash and the cluster bezel is broken beyond fixing. there is no glove box or door, and all switches will be replaced. The firewall insulation was removed in chunks, to give way to minor rust spots, but the floor pans are another story.
The front suspension is off and the upper control arms will be replaced along with every bushing on the front end. The UCA relocation holes are present on the on the shock towers but the UCA were pulled from the upper holes, the lower ones have never been used. The brakes will be be replaced with factory disks, non-power, from Glazier Nolan.
The fuel system has been completely redone from the tank to the carb, all new stainless steel lines, hipo fuel pump, sending unit, and fuel hoses.
From the cooling side, the radiator has been refurbished, new factory correct dated hoses, but no clamps as they are back ordered from Virginai Classic Mustang.
Electrical, new under hood wiring, 42A Alternator, regulator, and tailight harness, from Virginia Classic Mustang. The underdash harness was in good condition, after the "aftermarket" wiring was removed from the harness. The instrument cluster was refurbished, and cleaned, and original gauges were all functional, so they will be reused.
The wiper motor bracket, brake pedal bracket, and brake pedal assembly were all removed and stripped down to bare metal, shot with red oxide and painted black with duplicolor black engine paint. All shiny and new.
Next is the heater box and everything that goes along with it, the floorboards, and interior paint. Once that is done, the suspension will be put back together, and brakes ordered and assembled. Then the splash gaurds, and bumper brackets go back on, and the front of the car will start to take shape again...
POR-15...
Let me tell you about the beauty of this stuff. I know it's not "factory", but neither is the rust that comes with a 45 year old car.
POR-15 works like it says. It stops rust. I ordered the floor pan and engine kit from them directly. Starting in the trunk, I removed the fuel tank, and all of the sound deadener that was left. After countless hours with wire wheels, and wire brushes, I started on the POR-15 process. Clean it with Marine Clean, spray it Prep&Ready, then hose it off, and let it dry. I used the gloss black pint can on the trunk, coating every surface. Then the Power Mesh for a small hole that had eaten through trunk floor, then another coat on top. Filled in the pits with the epxoy putty, another coat of POR-15, and the trunk looks brand new. It's hard as steel, won't chip (I tried), and is ready for primer and paint.
After the trunk I moved to the back seat, and repeated the process. Overall the results are amazing, and I can't believe people don't use this more often...
POR-15 works like it says. It stops rust. I ordered the floor pan and engine kit from them directly. Starting in the trunk, I removed the fuel tank, and all of the sound deadener that was left. After countless hours with wire wheels, and wire brushes, I started on the POR-15 process. Clean it with Marine Clean, spray it Prep&Ready, then hose it off, and let it dry. I used the gloss black pint can on the trunk, coating every surface. Then the Power Mesh for a small hole that had eaten through trunk floor, then another coat on top. Filled in the pits with the epxoy putty, another coat of POR-15, and the trunk looks brand new. It's hard as steel, won't chip (I tried), and is ready for primer and paint.
After the trunk I moved to the back seat, and repeated the process. Overall the results are amazing, and I can't believe people don't use this more often...
Digging in...
So, for my first project restoration, I had to decide how to start tackling it. Being an old Navy guy, I decided the easiest approach was top to bottom forward to aft.
I carefully inspeced every piece from a front view of the car. Like a typical southerner, she had a crooked smile, so the grill came out. Held on by 2 screws, a zip tie and some JB Weld, it was no problem getting it out. I then discovered the hood latch and support were not actually attached to the car, so they came off too. The horn (hi pitch is all that was left) was non functional, so it came off as well.
After that, I realized the more I took off, the worse it started looking. At that point I figured the best thing to do would be to get all of the junk, trash, and miscellaneous items out and off the car. The trunk was full of pieces and parts that just needed to be trashed. Now the car is clean, and I can get a good idea of what really needs to be done.
I carefully inspeced every piece from a front view of the car. Like a typical southerner, she had a crooked smile, so the grill came out. Held on by 2 screws, a zip tie and some JB Weld, it was no problem getting it out. I then discovered the hood latch and support were not actually attached to the car, so they came off too. The horn (hi pitch is all that was left) was non functional, so it came off as well.
After that, I realized the more I took off, the worse it started looking. At that point I figured the best thing to do would be to get all of the junk, trash, and miscellaneous items out and off the car. The trunk was full of pieces and parts that just needed to be trashed. Now the car is clean, and I can get a good idea of what really needs to be done.
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
About the car...
As if choosing the car wasn't hard enough, it then came down to what to do with it. I bought the car in September 2010 and had a local mechanic look over the car and do whatever it needed to get it road ready. In December I finally had the car towed down to San Antonio, where I could have it near and control what was going on with it. So now it's home, and the restoration is well under way.
The data plate and VIN prove this car to be an October 1965 San Jose Plant car. It's oringinal engine was removed in the 80's and replaced with a 302 from a wrecked 5.0HO Mustang. Since I am the third owner, it has been very easy to verify the information that was passed down to me. The original color was Wimbledon White, it shows traces of dark blue Le Mans stripes at one time, but it has been repainted several times. The interior was originally Blue and White Pony, but was also redone with seats from a 1965 in turquoise (probably to match the exterior color). The GT badging was removed, and replaced at some point later with mostly standard badging (but of course not in the correct locations).
Just about everything you can imagine has been changed on the car. Air conditioning was added, power steering, some of the front suspension was replaced with a 67 setup. If there was a hole in the car it was filled with silicon caulk and then dirt was thrown in to help seal the leak.
The rims were sold, as well as most of the GT Badging and Deluxe Interior Parts years ago for extra money. The car is still solid though, and the restoration will continue.
The data plate and VIN prove this car to be an October 1965 San Jose Plant car. It's oringinal engine was removed in the 80's and replaced with a 302 from a wrecked 5.0HO Mustang. Since I am the third owner, it has been very easy to verify the information that was passed down to me. The original color was Wimbledon White, it shows traces of dark blue Le Mans stripes at one time, but it has been repainted several times. The interior was originally Blue and White Pony, but was also redone with seats from a 1965 in turquoise (probably to match the exterior color). The GT badging was removed, and replaced at some point later with mostly standard badging (but of course not in the correct locations).
Just about everything you can imagine has been changed on the car. Air conditioning was added, power steering, some of the front suspension was replaced with a 67 setup. If there was a hole in the car it was filled with silicon caulk and then dirt was thrown in to help seal the leak.
The rims were sold, as well as most of the GT Badging and Deluxe Interior Parts years ago for extra money. The car is still solid though, and the restoration will continue.
Choosing the car...
This blog should have started a year ago, when I was searching for a car. When my Dodge Durango's engine unexpectedly blew up, I started searching for something to replace it with. I looked at newer Mustangs (99-04) and kept looking on Cragslist at the older classic Mustangs (65-67). I couldn't decide which way to go. Everytime I looked at a new Mustang, I would look back at the classics and just wish. I expanded my search from the San Antonio area to the entire state of Texas, then surrounding states, Louisiana, New Mexico, Oklahoma and then as far West as California. I couldn't find what I wanted for the price I wanted to pay, $10k for a 6 cylinder 68, that needed total restoration?
I found a turquoise coupe in East Texas, 70 miles East of Dallas, that a friend knew of. I took the 4 hour drive North and met a man 6 miles down a dirt road, and in the back of the house, under a tree, was 1966 Mustang Coupe. No dents, very original looking from the outside, with minimal rust. It had potential from 50 feet away.
As I walked around the car, I noticed the straight body lines, crooked bumpers, small rust spots, the typical things you would see on a 45 year old car. It wasn't until I opened the driver's door. There on the Data Plate, in beautifully stamped, aging numbers, was the most gut checking sight. "6R07K117304"
I opened the hood, and there it was, repeated again on the left fender apron "6R07K117304". It was a 1966 Mustang K Code Coupe. 289 inches of High Performance, a C-4 Automatic, and an ageless beauty.
The owner took me for a spin in it, and less than a mile down the road, we had our first breakdown. We pushed it home, and we shook hands. The next day, I wired him the money for the car and had it delivered to a local mechanic to give it a once over.
I now own a K Code Coupe!!!
I found a turquoise coupe in East Texas, 70 miles East of Dallas, that a friend knew of. I took the 4 hour drive North and met a man 6 miles down a dirt road, and in the back of the house, under a tree, was 1966 Mustang Coupe. No dents, very original looking from the outside, with minimal rust. It had potential from 50 feet away.
As I walked around the car, I noticed the straight body lines, crooked bumpers, small rust spots, the typical things you would see on a 45 year old car. It wasn't until I opened the driver's door. There on the Data Plate, in beautifully stamped, aging numbers, was the most gut checking sight. "6R07K117304"
I opened the hood, and there it was, repeated again on the left fender apron "6R07K117304". It was a 1966 Mustang K Code Coupe. 289 inches of High Performance, a C-4 Automatic, and an ageless beauty.
The owner took me for a spin in it, and less than a mile down the road, we had our first breakdown. We pushed it home, and we shook hands. The next day, I wired him the money for the car and had it delivered to a local mechanic to give it a once over.
I now own a K Code Coupe!!!
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